Isla Maria Van Damme, commonly known by her sobriquet, ‘Loulou,’ is nothing short of an enigma in the design community. Born in Kodaikanal in 1945, the Belgian style maven has lived in Mumbai, Brussels and London, but claims that she was happiest in India, and that is what prompted her to come home at the age of 55 to ‘lead a retired life’. In reality, she hasn’t rested, and it can safely be attributed to her bohemian disposition, openness to new experiences and easy way with people.
Michael Snyder of the New York Times perfectly described Loulou as ‘a graceful, elfin figure in flowing caftans and gypsy skirts, beads and pendants, patterns and textures all layered with abandon.’ By the age of 21, she had opened a successful Indian handicrafts shop in Brussels called Santosh, where she sold jewellery, antiques and textiles. She then turned her attention to fashion design, creating European dresses with Indian fabrics for Jaipur-based brand, Anokhi.
In 1999, Loulou had opened the Olive Ridley cafe in Morjim, Goa, on a beach that was then serene, but has evolved into one of the most popular stretches of sand. Soon after, the bigwigs of Indian high-society began seeking her expertise in designing the interiors of their various abodes. Recently, she worked as a stylist for interiors and fashion store, Bungalow 8 and styled Raw Mango’s New Delhi store with Sanjay Garg’s team.
Here’s what we learned about Louolou Van Damme when we decided to go beyond her eclectic design portfolio and storied career, to see what really makes a trendsetter like her tick:
What books are you currently reading, or which television series are you currently watching?
Satyajit Ray’s short stories and Amin Maalouf’s ‘Le Naufrage des Civilisations’ (The Wreck of Civilizations.) I usually read two books at a time and NEVER EVER watch TV!
A designer who inspires you?
Dries van Noten because his clothes are so wearable, the way the fabrics beautifully combine, and because of the sheer timeless quality of his style.
And Sabyasachi for the splendours of Indian workmanship that he portrays, and his personal charisma and style in all he touches.
An Instagram account that you would recommend?
I don’t use it. I limit my time on the net as reality is far more interesting!
The one thing in your studio that you absolutely cannot function without?
I work from my dining table-with-a view in my bungalow in the hills. I cannot do without my engraved metal Islamic box, which has all my desk stuff in it!
If you were not a designer, what do you think you would have been?
A gypsy, because deep inside I am a wanderer, a ‘junglee.’ I really cherish freedom and open spaces, and love to dress like a gypsy too.
Tell us about a project that you are currently working on.
I am very excited to be working with Raw Mango on a fabric recycling project to develop new techniques, and create garments and furnishings.
What are you looking forward to the most this year?
Starting a new project in Goa. It is a family house. I need to keep away from the ‘Indo-Portuguese’ design, so I’m going for my first contemporary mood. At the same time I enjoy the challenge of having to keep a discreet ‘Goa vibe,’ with a new eye for building materials ,textures and the play of light.
A lesson/incident/words of wisdom from a mentor that you live by even today?
I cannot remember whose words these are, but I heartily agree: ‘Your comfort zone is a dangerous place to be.’
If you had to summarise your design ethos in not more than 2 sentences, what would it be?
Understanding my clients needs and way of life, be it in a home or a garment, is essential to my work. Simplicity ( for me, less is more.) I always look at the practical aspect of things. I also love to marry different styles, keep it eclectic, and of course I love to work with colour and fabric.
Tell us about 3 architectural/design creations (not your own) that you admire most.
The Museum of Islamic Art in Doha—A masterpiece by I.M Pei. I admire his restraint in details, the sheer beauty of the proportions of the building, and the brilliance of framing it with the sea. A sense of peace and tranquility enveloped me when I entered.
The Home of Christophe Decarpentrie (Belgian designer) with its iconic 14th century mud walls of Taroudant in South Morocco. I admire it for his respect of the architecture, whilst still adding the necessities of our modern world, and the magical, multicultural interiors; a baroque ceiling painted by Thierry Bosquet, an Egyptian statue, an Indian inlaid table, and more.
Hanut Singh’s Delhi home. The extreme madness and daring is so over the top that it all somehow manages to look utterly fabulous!
Your next travel destination and why you would like to go there?
Iran. For the resilience of its people, who enjoy life inspite of abhorrent politics, and the rich history, architecture, culture, and food.
